Haute Gowns

Celeste Perron
TheKnot.com

The words “custom” and “couture” are thrown around a lot in the world of wedding fashion, because most high-end bridal salons customize their gowns to fit each individual bride’s exact measurements. But a true custom gown is one that’s designed specifically with you in mind and made only for you (as opposed to one that’s pre-designed and produced in multiple, but then tailored to fit your body and maybe tweaked to suit your tastes).  If you’re dreaming of such a uniquely yours creation, read on for our crash course in how to make it a reality.

Step One: Do the Research

You should begin the custom gown purchasing process the same way you’d go about buying a regular gown:

Fill an inspiration folder. Look through bridal mags and search online (go to TheKnot.com/gowns for 175+ designer collections) and tear or print out photos of all the gowns you like. Once you’ve got a thick stack, look for common themes—is there a certain neckline you’re drawn to, or a certain type of fabric?

Go shopping. Even if you’re dead-set on going custom, you should still visit bridal salons and try on samples. Find the gowns in your inspiration folder and try them on. “Some of them may not look good on you in real life and that will help you eliminate that look,” says designer Saeyoung Vu. “It allows you to zero in on the best silhouettes for you before you get started working with a designer.” Once you’ve tried on a dozen or more dresses, you’ll have a clear idea of what you’re looking for.

Step Two: Interview designers

When you meet with potential designers, show them the photos of your favorite dresses and tell them about yourself. Talk about what you feel comfortable wearing—what you wear to work, to dinner with your fiancé, to a black-tie event—as well as what designers you like and where you like to shop. This will communicate your personal style. In addition, ask these questions:

• Can I see photos of gowns you’ve made in the past?

• Can I see some of your sketches? (You need somebody with the ability to give you a detailed sketch, so you know you’re on the same page.)

• How many fittings are typically involved?

• Do you offer a muslin fitting? (Pedone recommends you only go with a designer who offers a muslin fitting, a couture process in which the design is first constructed out of canvas so you can see how it fits and tweak it before the final product.)

• Can I get a written estimate? (Be sure to get the price in writing so costs don’t start to spiral out of control once your dress is underway.)

Step 3: Decide on a Shape

With a custom gown you have infinite options—which, as you know, can be both a blessing and a curse! If you feel overwhelmed by the possibilities when it comes to choosing a silhouette, consider these factors so you can hone in on one you’ll be happy with.

What parts of your body do you want to accentuate, and which do you want to minimize? In general, strapless tops and A-line bottoms are two of the most universally flattering looks, says Sabatino.

What styles will fit the setting? If you can’t decide between two silhouettes, picture each of them in your wedding venue. If you’re getting married in a garden, then a soft and romantic gown will look better than a curve-clinging sparkly one, though that style would look perfect in a downtown ballroom.

When you tried on the gowns, which ones feel most comfortable? This is key. No matter what styles you think will look good on your body and in your setting, it’s essential that you feel good in the one you choose.

Step 4: Find Your Fabric

One of the best parts of buying a custom gown is that you get to choose the exact fabric you want—a great opportunity, but also a big decision to be responsible for. This is one of the reasons that using a seasoned designer is essential. Only a pro will understand how your ideal design will work (or won’t work) in a variety of fabrics. Here are some of the most popular options and their key characteristics:

Duchesse satin: A luxurious satin with a high sheen to it. It drapes well and works with a lot of different styles, so designers usually love to use it. But it’s typically a little more expensive than some fabrics.

Silk shantung: A form of silk with a slightly rougher texture and a very luxurious sheen.

Tafetta: Thin, crisp, and very light. “It moves with you and it’s great for destination weddings in warm climates,” says Vu. “But it does wrinkle quite a bit so you have to be okay with that.”

Silk organza: Light and sheer. Silk organza is a great choice for a spring or summer bride who wants the stiffness of a traditional bridal gown but not the weight of a fabric like duchesse satin. It also looks great as an overlay.

Silk wool: This blend has a romantic vintage look, and is great for winter weddings. “It was used a lot in the 1950s,” says Vu. “I love using it for boxy, ’50s-style dresses.”

Silk crepe: A flowing fabric that lends itself well to ruching, bias cuts, and goddess-style gowns.

Step 5: Pick the Right White

As you’ll soon discover if you haven’t already, there are hundreds of shades that all qualify as “white.” Here are some terms you should know before you set about choosing the right white for you:

True white: A stark, almost blue-tinged white that looks good on very fair complexions.

Diamond white: A bit more coloration than stark, pure white.

Off-white and Ivory: Ivory is typically warmer and creamier than off-white, though it varies by designer or fabric maker (that is, one “off-white” could actually contain more color than another “ivory”). Also, there’s a range of ivories, from “light ivory” to “dark ivory.” These hues are the most universally flattering and look especially gorgeous against olive skin.

Champagne: The darkest and richest of the whites, champagne dresses usually have a romantic, vintage-y feel.

To choose a color with confidence, make sure you see a large sample of the fabric. Hold it up against your face and tuck it in the bodice to see how it will look on you. And make sure you choose your hue by looking at the exact same fabric your dress will be made of. An ivory in duchesse satin is going to look different than an ivory in silk mikado. Have your designer take photos of you holding a variety of whites up to your skin so you can review the pictures before making your final decision.

Step Six: Communicate with your designer—and stay open-minded!

Once you’ve chosen a designer and the process is underway, be sure to speak up about all your concerns. Make sure your designer understands what you’re saying. It’s okay to ask for more sketches to make sure. If, during the fittings, you feel like you don’t love the gown quite as much as you thought you would, don’t be afraid to speak up. Remember that your designer wants you to be 100-percent happy with your gown. Once you’ve put the time and energy into conceptualizing your dream gown and finding the perfect designer, you can rest assured that you’ll walk down the aisle looking unlike any bride who’s taken those steps before.